Year Opened: March 2007
Represents:
Photographers: Bruna Kazinoti, Daniel Sannwald, Mari Sarai
Stylist/fashion consultancy: Jonathan Saunders, Robbie Spencer, Stevie Westgarth
Design: Jonathan Saunders, Husam El Odeh
Illustration: Will Broome, Husam El Odeh
Website: www.murrayarthur.co.uk

What is your earliest recollection of noticing or being inspired by photography and/or style?
From a very early age I started noticing clothes and fashion. I didn’t want to conform to the school uniform (even at the age of 8.) and I used to cut my clothes up and make my own creations (very badly). My mother used to go mad at me for cutting up clothes but once I had done it, I got told that I had to wear them as I had done it now. I did get very strange looks and comments, coming from a tiny village in the highlands of Scotland.
Photography I had loved since getting a camera for my 7th birthday and started taking photos of absolutely everything you can imagine. It was a Kodak Ektra 12 and I spent so much money on film, buying flashes and developing that from then on I said that I was going to be an actor or a photographer when I left school. My parents continued buying me cameras, then when I was about 14/ 15 and the era of the ‘real Supermodels’ (i.e. Linda, Christy, Naomi, Claudia, etc) came into fruition I just went berserk with the way they were shot and the beauty… I am still obsessed by Linda Evangelista! I think she is the ultimate supermodel.

Why and how did you get into the industry?
I left school at 16, after being told that my head was full of fashion and I would not get anywhere by my teachers. I then worked in clothes shops in Aberdeen (the nearest city to where I come from) and realized that there was no future for me in Scotland, so one day I just packed my bags and moved to London as I had a few friends here.
I had continually bought every single fashion magazine every single month from about the age of 15 so I felt I knew a lot of what I was coming to. My first job in London was for DKNY when it first opened in the shop on Bond Street. As the menswear floor manager I was there 4 months then met Alexander McQueen. I went to work with him at the beginning of his career as studio manager. This was also when he became creative director at Givenchy and it was exciting times. I was there for 2 years, then moved to working at 2 model agencies. I just didn’t get it! It was so stressful as half the models had no money and I ended up feeling sorry for them and giving them my own money so they could eat. It wasn’t a nice period of my life. Then I looked after stylists, hair and make-up at a pretty commercial agency, then moved to an agency that looked after photographers. I realized that I loved working with photographers and creating something, from beginning to end, even though again the agency was pretty commercial and I was trying to push the level of it up. I was always held up by my bosses as they were only interested in money and I was always like “where is the creativity in that?”. When they went bust, I took a step back and thought about how I would move forward. I went to meet with some of the best agents in London whom I had really (and still do) respect so much. After talking with friends I realised that the only way forward for me would be to do my own thing, my way, as this is what would make me happy. I looked at what I would be best at and loved – stylists, photographers, illustration and designers. I did and it has!

Describe the Murray Arthur philosophy:
The Murray Arthur philosophy is about the brand new, fresh, exciting talent that is coming through. It is about discovery and creating the new artists of the future – fashion photography, illustration, styling, designing, consulting. Working on high end editorial and making its mark.

What are you looking for when deciding to represent new talent?
First and foremost I look for trust & loyalty, that their work is somewhat different from everyone I represent and that is out there at the moment. That they understand where I am coming from and that I understand their needs, that we get on and one thing that is super important to me is that they are nice people as you have to deal with them on a daily basis. I have had enough of people who work in fashion and think that they genuinely think that it is a really ok to be rude and awful to everyone around them.

What is an average day at work for you?
I always try to get into work by 9am – 9.30am. I walk to the office with my dog, grab a coffee if I feel tired, chamomile tea if not tired. When my wonderful assistant gets in we discuss what he needs to do that day – he will do anything from postage, delivering items to clients, getting my lunch, walking my dog to updating my database, dealing with clients and answering the phone. I will call all my artists, have a chat with them to see how they are that day. If organizing a shoot I will be doing the producing, speaking to model agents, hair & make-up, studios, locations etc… during my day I always look at my website and see what needs to be done to that. I try to get to most shoots that my artists are working on. By 6pm I hopefully will have had a good productive day. I never leave the office before 8pm so either my assistant will take the dog home so I can go straight out after work and or if I am not going out I will walk her home with me. Between 6pm – 8pm or later I stay and pay bills, sort out the mundane side of things that have to be done that I don’t want my day to be full of. When I get home I normally sit at my desk and look at websites and do some research on what is happening in the industry that day/week.

What attributes do you think an artist representative needs to have in order to be successful?
Drive, flexibility, understanding, being true to oneself/artists’ needs, having a good ear to listen and always being available 24/7 for my artists.

What sets you apart from other people in your profession?
I am providing a platform for genuine new talent to get through where it may be harder on their own. Being 100% honest. Personal and professional service, and always being there no matter what or when my artists need me. The ability to spot new talent, I have been told I have a really good eye for that!

How do you see the industry changing in the next 5 to 10 years?
Oh, I really don’t know. I expect that things will be expected to be done faster, seeing the change in the last 5 years from film to digital has been a huge thing in terms of time for clients. I really don’t know. Currently I am working for the moment and just developing all my artists to the best they can be at the moment and in the next few months.

Best advice you have ever been given?
My late father said, ‘Son be proud of what you do, no matter what it is, even if you sweep the streets make sure you do it well’, and the late Isabella Blow always said to me ‘Follow your heart – always’.

What are you loving at the moment?
There are too many things to list! I love the fact I have just taken on photographer Bruna Kazinoti, the fact that I am so proud of all my artists. I am loving the collaborations I have coming up soon, the excitement of FLASH opening and our collaborations we have going on there. Personally I love my home, my dog, the simple things in life… oh, the list is endless. I am very happy with things in my life professionally and personally.

Images

Q&A

Name: Daniel Sannwald
Age: 29
Nationality: German
Based In: Antwerp / Belgium
Website: www.danielsannwald.com
Representation: www.murrayarthur.co.uk

How did you start your career?
When I was very young my mother took me on a trip to Turkey in her VW Käfer car for some vacation. I can’t remember the trip so well but I remember it was the first vacation I was allowed to use her camera. One of the first pictures I ever took was when my mother was sleeping in the car. I was six years old and she looked so perfect to me. I remember that at that moment she symbolised every idealistic feeling I had about a woman.

That was maybe not the exact start of my career but the start of me trying to use a camera to capture what I love.

What do you think is your best work so far?
Louis Vuitton Special for Vogue Hommes Japan.

Who or what has influenced you?
My friends.

What is your earliest recollection of noticing or being inspired by photography and/or style?
My earliest recollection of noticing photography was with my father who was an artist, who used a lot of video and photography in his work. He took a couple of images of me dressed up in costumes and projected the images on canvas and airbrushed them into very strange collages. As a teenager I was really inspired by the way my mum took photos. She always hates to take photos but the outcome is always good. She is almost like a kid holding a camera for the first time. Every photographic rule is broken and the image just looks free. Only my mother is able to cut off all the heads of a family portrait and make it still look nice.

What is your favorite childhood memory?
Dressing up as a homeless person and pretending on the streets that I didn’t have a family.

What music do you like to work to?
If a CD would exist with live recordings of people performing at different karaoke bars then this would be the best ever for me.

Three people you would love to work with:
Jamie Bell, Miuccia Prada and Mario Hugo

Describe your dream project?
I would like to have some time of to work on a documentary film. One evening, my boyfriend and I had nice idea together which I would like to realize with him in the near future.

Where do you find inspiration?
In almost everything.

What are you loving at the moment?
How my boy moves his hair with his forehead when he is surprised.

Film you think everyone should see:
“Der Rechte Weg / The right way” by Peter Fischli and David Weiss.

Best advice you have ever been given?
Enjoy.

Who do you think is one to watch?
A nice magazine from Belgium called Ultraviolet Magazine, and my talanted friends Jenny Mörtsell, Bruna Kazinoti and Albert Folch.

Thanks to Daniel Sannwald for his time and work, and to Ruben Debuck for the tip!